Your hotel concierge or guest relations manager is usually a valuable source of information. The Hong Kong Tourist Board (HKTB) is also well equipped and eager to help visitors and answer their questions.
American Express--There are two American Express offices, located on both sides of Victoria Harbour. On Hong Kong Island, you'll find an American Express on the first floor of the Henley Building, 5 Queen's Rd. Central, in the Central District (tel. 852/2110 2008). In Tsim Sha Tsui, it's at 48 Cameron Rd. (tel. 852/2926 1606). Both offices are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 12:30pm. American Express cardholders can withdraw local currency and traveler's checks 24 hours a day at the Express Cash automated-teller machines (ATMs) at both locations, as well as at Jetco ATMs throughout Hong Kong, as long as you know your personal identification number.
Area Code--The international country code for Hong Kong is 852.
Bookstores--There are lots of English-language bookstores, particularly in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui. Ask your hotel concierge for the one nearest you. Otherwise, one of the largest is Pageone, with two locations, at Shop 3002, Zone A, Harbour City, Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2730 6080), open daily from 10am to 8pm; and in Basement One of Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay (tel. 852/2506 0381), open daily from 10:30am to 10pm. Both carry books on Hong Kong and China, as well as English-language novels, nonfiction, and magazines.
Business Hours--Although open hours can vary among banks, banking hours are generally Monday to Friday from 9am to 4:30pm and Saturday from 9am to 12:30pm. Keep in mind, however, that some banks stop their transactions--including foreign currency exchange--an hour before closing time.
Most business offices are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, with lunch hour from 1 to 2pm; Saturday business hours are generally 9am to 1pm.
Most shops are open 7 days a week. Shops in the Central District are generally open from 10am to 7pm; in Causeway Bay and Wan Chai, 10am to 9:30pm; and in Tsim Sha Tsui, 10am to 9 or 10pm (and some even later than that). As for bars, most stay open until at least 2am; some stay open until the crack of dawn.
Convention Center--The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre is located on the harbor waterfront at 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2582 8888).
Currency Exchange--When exchanging money in Hong Kong, you'll get the best rate at banks. The exchange rate can vary among banks, however, so it may pay to shop around if you're exchanging a large amount. Some banks, for example, offer a better exchange rate but charge a commission of about HK$50 to HK$60 (US$6.50-US$7.80); others many not charge commission but have lower rates. Most charge a commission on traveler's checks (unless, of course, you're cashing American Express checks at an American Express office), but the exchange rate is usually better for traveler's checks than cash. The three main banks in Hong Kong are the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (usually shortened to Hongkong Bank or HSBC), 29 Queen's Rd., Central (tel. 852/2847 7222); Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd., Central (tel. 852/2820 3984 or 852/2820 3333); and Bank of China, 1 Garden Rd., Central (tel. 852/2826 6888). Major banks are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 4:30pm and Saturday from 9am to 12:30pm. The Hang Seng Bank, which I find offers good exchange rates (but does charge a commission), has branches virtually everywhere, including a convenient location next to Kowloon Hotel at 4 Hankow Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2198 0575).
Hotels give a slightly less favorable exchange rate but are convenient because they're open at night and on weekends. Money changers are found in the tourist areas, especially along Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui. Avoid them if you can. They often charge a commission or a "changing fee," or give a much lower rate. Check exactly how much you'll get in return before handing over your money. If you exchange money at Hong Kong International Airport, change only what you need to get into town--US$50 should be enough--because the exchange rate here is lower than what you'll get at banks in town.
There are also ATMs throughout Hong Kong, including MTR subway stations and the Star Ferry concourse in Tsim Sha Tsui. The Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation and Hang Seng Banks have ATMs open 24 hours for Visa and MasterCard holders. American Express cardholders have access to Jetco ATMs and card machines located at both American Express offices.
Dentists/Doctors--Most first-class hotels have medical clinics with registered nurses, as well as doctors, on duty at specified hours or on call 24 hours for emergencies. Otherwise, the concierge can refer you to a doctor or dentist. The U.S. consulate can also provide information on English-speaking doctors. If it's an emergency, dial tel. 999 or contact one of the recommendations under "Hospitals," below.
Drugstores--There are no 24-hour drugstores in Hong Kong, so if you need something urgently in the middle of the night, you should contact one of the hospitals listed below. One of the best-known pharmacies in Hong Kong is Watson's, which dates back to the 1880s. Today, there are more than 90 Watson's drugstores in Hong Kong, most of them open from 9am to 10pm. Ask the concierge at your hotel for the location of a Watson's or drugstore nearest you.
Electricity--The electricity used in Hong Kong is 220 volts, alternating current (AC), 50 cycles (in the U.S. it's 110 volts and 60 cycles). Most hotels are equipped to fit shavers of different plugs and voltages, but for other gadgets, you'll need transformers and plug adapters (Hong Kong outlets take plugs with three rectangular prongs). Most laptop computers nowadays are equipped to deal with both 110 and 220 volts, though you'll still need a prong adapter (ask your hotel whether they have one you can use).
Embassies/Consulates--If you need to contact a consulate about an application for a visa, a lost passport, tourist information, or an emergency, telephone first to find out the hours of the various sections. The visa section, for example, may be open only during certain hours of the day.
The American Consulate, 26 Garden Rd., Central District (tel. 852/2523 9011; tel. 852/2841 2211 for the American Citizens Service), is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 4pm. The Canadian Consulate, 12th-14th floor of Tower One, Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central District (tel. 852/2810 4321), is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm; closed Wednesday afternoon. Its passport section is open Monday to Friday from 9am to noon.
The British Consulate, at 1 Supreme Court Rd., Central District (tel. 852/2901 3000; tel. 852/2901 3222 for passport inquiries), is open Monday to Friday from 8:45am to 3pm.
The Australian Consulate is on the 23rd and 24th floors of Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, on Hong Kong Island (tel. 852/2827 8881), and is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. The New Zealand Consulate is on the 65th floor of Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai (tel. 852/2525 5044), and is open Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.
For information on visa applications to mainland China, contact a tour operator such as China Travel Service.
Emergencies--All emergency calls are free--just dial tel. 999 for police, fire, or ambulance.
Hospitals--The following hospitals can help you around the clock: Queen Mary Hospital, 102 Pokfulam Rd., Hong Kong Island (tel. 852/2855 3111); and Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 30 Gascoigne Rd., Kowloon (tel. 852/2958 8888).
Hot Lines--The Hong Kong Tourist Board's hot line is tel. 852/2508 1234, with service available Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays from 9am to 5pm. The Police Crime Hotline (including complaints against taxi drivers) is tel. 852/2527 7177.
Internet Access--All upper-range and most medium-priced hotels in Hong Kong are equipped with dataports that allow guests to use laptop computers. In some hotels, Internet access is available upon purchase of an Internet access card for about HK$100 (US$13), valid for anywhere from 100 minutes to unlimited use for 5 days, depending on the hotel (the more expensive the hotel, the more expensive its Internet rates). Other hotels, especially those with keyboards that use the TV as computer, charge a flat rate per day. In addition, many hotels offer business centers as well, most equipped with computers and Internet access (fees may be charged).
Outside hotels, Shadowman, 7 Lock Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (tel. 852/2366 5262), across from the Hyatt Regency, is a small cybercafe with a half-dozen computers, providing free Internet access for 20 minutes with the purchase of a drink or food and charging HK$10 (US$1.30) per 15 minutes beyond that. It's open daily from 8am to midnight. Itfans, 12-13 Jubilee St., Central (near Central Market and the Hong Kong Tourist Board), is open 24 hours with 100 computers, charging HK$18 (US$2.35) an hour Monday through Saturday and HK$12 (US$1.55) per hour Sunday and holidays, plus a HK$10 (US$1.30) membership fee. In addition, Pacific Coffee is a chain of coffee shops, several with a couple of computers that customers can access for free (you'll probably have to wait in line), including shop 1022 in the International Finance Center (IFC), above Hong Kong Station in Central (tel. 852/2868 5100), open Monday to Saturday from 7am to 10pm and Sunday from 8:30am to 9pm; and in the Peak Tower on Victoria Peak (tel. 852/2849 6608), open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 10:30pm and Friday to Sunday from 8am to 11pm.
Languages--Before the 1997 handover, English and Cantonese were Hong Kong's two official languages. Now, however, English and "Chinese" are listed as the two official languages. There is no one Chinese language, however. While most Hong Kong Chinese speak Cantonese, that's a foreign language in Beijing, where the official language is Mandarin (Putonghua). In reality, Mandarin has also become the official language of the SAR and is being taught in Hong Kong schools. At any rate, while Mandarin and Cantonese differ widely, they use the same characters for writing. Therefore, while a Hong Kong Chinese and a mainland Chinese may not be able to communicate orally, they can read each other's newspapers. Chinese characters number in the tens of thousands; knowledge of at least 1,500 characters is necessary to read a newspaper. Chinese is difficult to learn primarily because of the tonal variations. Western ears may find these differences in pronunciation almost impossible to detect, but a slight change in tone changes the whole meaning. One thing you'll notice, however, is that Chinese is spoken loudly--whispering does not seem to be part of the language.
Despite the fact that English is an official language and is spoken in hotels and tourist shops, few Chinese outside these areas understand it. Bus drivers, taxi drivers, and waiters in many Chinese restaurants do not speak English and will simply shrug their shoulders to your query. To avoid confusion, have someone in your hotel write out your destination in Chinese so that you can show it to your taxi or bus driver. Most Chinese restaurants--and all those listed in this book--have English menus. If you need assistance, try asking younger Chinese, since it's more likely that they will have studied English in school.
Liquor Laws--The drinking (and smoking) age in Hong Kong is 18. The hours for bars vary according to the district, though those around Lan Kwai Fong and Tsim Sha Tsui stay open the longest, often till dawn.
Luggage Storage/Lockers--The best and most convenient place to store luggage is at your hotel, even if you plan on traveling to Macau or China for a couple of days. Otherwise, there are luggage-checking services ("left-luggage") at Hong Kong International Airport, Hong Kong Station, the Macau Ferry Terminal on Hong Kong Island, and the China Hong Kong Terminal on Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Mail--Most hotels have stamps and can mail your letters for you. Otherwise, there are plenty of post offices throughout the SAR. Most are open Monday to Friday from 9:30am to 5pm and Saturday from 9:30am to 1pm. The main post office is on Hong Kong Island at 2 Connaught Place, in the Central District near the Star Ferry concourse (tel. 852/2921 2222), where you'll find stamps sold on the first floor (what those from the U.S. would call the second floor). If you don't know where you'll be staying in Hong Kong, you can have your mail sent here "Poste Restante." The post office will hold mail for 2 months; when you come to collect it, be sure to bring along your passport for identification. On the Kowloon side, the main post office is at 10 Middle Rd., which is 1 block north of Salisbury Road (tel. 852/2366 4111). Both are open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 6pm and Sunday from 8am to 2pm.
Mailboxes are a bright orange-red in Hong Kong. Airmail letters up to 20g and postcards cost HK$3 (US40¢) to the United States or Europe. You can count on airmail letters to take about 5 to 7 days, sometimes longer, to reach the United States.
To mail a package via surface mail to the United States, it costs HK$251 (US$33) for a package weighing 5 kilos (11 lb.) and HK$441 (US$53) for a package weighing 10 kilos (22 lb.). A 5-kilo package sent airmail will cost HK$419 (US$54), a 10-kilo package HK$799 (US$104). Post offices sell boxes called Postpak that are handy for mailing items home; they come in four sizes costing HK$14 (US$1.75) to HK$35 (US$4.55). For general inquiries, call tel. 852/2921 2222.
Newspapers--The South China Morning Post and the Hong Kong iMail (which carries mostly financial news) are the two local English-language daily newspapers. For a different perspective, you might also want to pick up the China Daily, from Beijing. The Asian Wall Street Journal, Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, and USA Today International are also available.
Police--You can reach the police for an emergency by dialing tel. 999, the same number as for a fire or an ambulance. This is a free call. There's a crime hot line (tel. 852/2527 7177), a 24-hour service that also handles complaints against taxis. For general police inquiries, call tel. 852/2860 2000). If calling from a private phone, these calls are all free (all local calls are free in Hong Kong). However, you'll be charged the regular rates if calling from a public phone or hotel room.
Safety--The SAR is relatively safe for the visitor, especially if you use common sense and stick to such well-traveled nighttime areas as Tsim Sha Tsui, Lan Kwai Fong, or Causeway Bay. The main thing you must guard against is pickpockets. They often work in groups to pick men's pockets or slit open a woman's purse, quickly taking the valuables and then relaying them on to accomplices who disappear in the crowd. Favored places are Tsim Sha Tsui, Causeway Bay, and Wan Chai. You should also be on guard on crowded public conveyances such as the MTR. To be on the safe side, keep your valuables in your hotel's safe-deposit box. If you need to carry your passport or large amounts of money, it's a good idea to conceal everything in a money belt. Don't leave your passport in your hotel room unless it's in a safe or safe-deposit box.
Taxes--Hotels will add a 10% service charge and a 3% government tax to your bill. Restaurants and bars will automatically add a 10% service charge, but there is no tax. There's an airport departure tax of HK$80 (US$10) for adults and children older than 12, but this is usually--though not always--included in your ticket price. If you're taking the boat to Macau, you must pay a Hong Kong departure tax of HK$19 (US$2.45), which is already included in the price of your boat ticket.
Telephone--The international country code for Hong Kong is 852.
In Hong Kong, local calls made from homes, offices, shops, restaurants, and some hotel lobbies are free, so don't feel shy about asking to use the phone. From hotel lobbies and public phone booths, a local call costs HK$1 (US15¢) for each 5 minutes; from hotel rooms, about HK$4 to HK$5 (US50¢-US65¢). For directory assistance (free and in English), dial tel. 1081 for local numbers, tel. 10013 for international inquiries.
Most hotels in Hong Kong offer direct dialing. Otherwise, long-distance calls can be made from specially marked International Dialing Direct (IDD) public phones. The cheapest and most convenient method of making international calls is to use a PhoneCard, which comes in denominations ranging from HK$50 to HK$300 (US$6.50-US$39) and is available at HKTB information offices, 7-Eleven convenience stores, machines located beside telephones, and other locations around Hong Kong. Simply insert the card into the slot and dial. You can also charge your telephone call to a major credit card by using 1 of about 100 credit-card phones in major shopping locations.
To make a direct-dial international call, dial tel. 001, followed by the country code. Country codes include 1 for the United States and Canada, 44 for the United Kingdom, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand. For a direct-dial call to the United States, for example, dial tel. 001-1-area code-telephone number, which costs approximately HK$6.80 (US90¢) per minute.
Alternatively, you can make a collect call from any public or private phone by dialing tel. 10010. You can also make cashless international calls from any telephone in Hong Kong by using Home Direct, which gives you immediate and direct access to an operator in the country you're calling. Calls can then be charged collect or charged to an overseas telephone card, making it cheaper than a regular international call from Hong Kong. Some designated Home Direct telephones in Hong Kong, located at the airport, Ocean Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, and other locations, even allow you to talk with an operator in your country with the push of a button. Home Direct numbers from Hong Kong are tel. 800 96 0161 for Australia, tel. 800 96 1100 for Canada, tel. 800 96 0064 for New Zealand, and tel. 800 96 0044 for the United Kingdom. For the United States, dial tel. 800 96 1111 or 800 93 2266 for AT&T, tel. 800 96 1121 for MCI, and tel. 800 96 1877 for Sprint. For more information on dial access numbers for Home Direct, phone locations, where PhoneCards can be purchased and operated, time zones, or other matters pertaining to international calls, call tel. 10013.
Television--There are two English-language TV channels, TVB Pearl and ATV World, broadcasting weekday mornings, evenings, and all day weekends and holidays, with a choice of local programs and shows imported from Britain, America, and Australia. In addition, all first-class and most moderate hotels have satellite television (with imported British, Australian, and American programming, a sports channel, BBC and CNN news channels, and MTV) or cable TV (BBC). Generally, satellite provides more channels, though services can vary depending on how many programs a hotel is signed up for (the cheaper the hotel, the fewer channels available). Many hotels also offer in-house pay movies and may also subscribe to the Hongkong Channel, which features short, 5-minute features on Hong Kong's history, transportation networks, traditional customs and festivals, cultural events, shopping tips, and other information.
Time Zone--Hong Kong is 8 hours ahead of Greenwich mean time, 13 hours ahead of New York, 14 hours ahead of Chicago, and 16 hours ahead of Los Angeles. Since Hong Kong does not have a daylight saving time, subtract 1 hour from the above times if you're calling the United States in the summer. Because Hong Kong is on the other side of the International date line, you lose 1 day when traveling from the West to Asia. Don't worry--you gain it back when you return, which means that you arrive back home the same day you left Hong Kong.
Tipping--Even though restaurants and bars will automatically add a 10% service charge to your bill, you're still expected to leave small change for the waiter. A general rule of thumb is to leave 5%, but in most Chinese restaurants where meals are usually inexpensive, it's acceptable to leave change up to HK$5 (US65¢). In the finest restaurants, you should leave 10%.
You're also expected to tip taxi drivers, bellhops, barbers, and beauticians. For taxi drivers, simply round up your bill to the nearest HK$1 or add a HK$1 (US15¢) tip. Tip people who cut your hair 5% or 10%, and give bellhops HK$10 to HK$20 (US$1.30-US$2.60), depending on the number of your bags. If you use a public restroom with an attendant, you may be expected to leave a small gratuity--HK$2 (US25¢) should be enough. In addition, chambermaids and room attendants are usually given about 2% of the room charge.
Toilets--The best places to track down public facilities in Hong Kong are its many hotels. Fast-food restaurants and shopping malls are other good bets. There may be an attendant on hand, who will expect a small tip of about HK$2 (US25¢). Note that there are no public facilities at any of the MTR subway stations. Hotels and tourist sites usually have Western toilets, but you may encounter Chinese toilets on ferries and on the islands. To use them, squat facing the hood.
Water--It's considered safe to drink urban tap water, though most people prefer bottled water, which is widely available. In summer it's wise to carry bottled water with you. Some hotels have their own purification systems. I always drink the water, and have never gotten ill. If you travel into rural Hong Kong or China, however, drink only bottled water.
Weather--If you want to check the day's temperature and humidity level or the 2-day forecast, dial tel. 18501 or 187 8066. Both are in English and both are free. Otherwise, if a storm is brewing and you're worried about a typhoon, tune in to one of the radio or television stations described above.
